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Not so long ago Jolanda and I departed New Zealand’s capital city, Wellington, for Whakatane – a small town in the Eastern Bay of Plenty, home to around 35,000 people.

I was being transferred temporarily for my job at the Department of Conservation. My new temporary role was to work with one of New Zealand’s largest Iwis, Tūhoe, whose people had felt disconnected from their homeland for around 150 years, but who now had the opportunity to pursue a responsibility-based re-connection on the back of a settlement agreement with the Crown.

At the start of my temporary secondment I felt completely out of my comfort zone. I knew almost nothing about Tūhoe people and what they had experienced. My understanding of Maori issues in general was virtually non-existent. I scratched my head at the time and thought to myself – how the hell did I land up here? I grew up in the heart of Remuera – son of a Doctor – private school education . . . I think there might have been someone Maori at my school? I honestly can’t remember. I went to University at Otago and surrounded myself with well-off pakehas . . . it was what I knew and in my comfort zone.

At the end of my short time with Tūhoe I now feel incredibly connected to the people and the place – more than I think I have ever felt connected to any work previously. Te Kawa (Tūhoe’s long term management plan for a massive chunk of central North island land – Te Urewera) for me was like a light bulb turning on . . . Recognising that we are born with responsibility – not powers and rights and false superiority over nature. Nature is speaking to us all the time – telling us about the world we live in and what’s important. Most of the time we are simply not patient, humble or egoless enough to pay attention to the story.

I have learned a lot about responsibility and caring – what that really means in the context of a post settlement world for Maori people – this stuff means something.

Turning to life in Whakatane – I had always thought of New Zealand as friendly place. I have lived and worked overseas for a number of years in London, Amsterdam and Sydney. None of those places I would have characterised as un-friendly, however it’s not until you arrive back in New Zealand and receive a cheery greeting from a shop assistant at Auckland airport, that you realise what it’s like for someone to ask you how you are – and be genuinely interested in the answer.

This morning, on one of my last days before departing, I drove into the town centre from our rented place on Ohope Beach to do a few errands. First the bike shop where the lady remembered my wife’s name from her call the previous day and we had a general chat about how hot it has been lately and about the bike business in general. Then I drove to my favourite café for a coffee and eggs. Crossing the road to the cafe from where I parked the car involved negotiating almost every driver desperate to stop, let me cross and give me a thumbs up. A chat at the café with the owner and then a walk back to my car encountering a “good morning” from lady putting out tables outside the Sri Lankan restaurant. My last stop was a quick visit to the supermarket, exchanging a “kia ora” with a heavily tattooed and beaming Maori gentlemen getting out of his car.

And that is pretty much a typical day in Whakatane. It’s one friendly and laid-back place – that’s for sure . . .

So where next for us? Well, Jolanda and I have decided to take off overseas for another adventure. Perhaps this sounds a bit greedy after our mega overseas trip in 2017? I guess all I can say is that I am hugely grateful to be able to live the life I do and don’t take anything for granted. So that’s that then . . .

Stay tuned for more on our 2019 Big Adventure. First stop Sydney on March 15th.