Days 27 to 35: Ubud, the Byron Bay of Bali

May 1st we arrive in Bali Indonesia. As soon as you get off the plane you feel enveloped in the different pace of life that is Bali. No problem finding someone willing to take us in a taxi to Ubud late at night . . .

Ubud, the Byron Bay of Bali. Well that’s what an Australian lady from Queensland told us in the pool this afternoon – I wonder whether they call Byron Bay the Ubud of Australia?

This was my second time in Ubud and the fourth for Jolanda. Ubud takes a bit of working out. You can spend mega bucks or next to nothing here for accommodation – the trick being, of course, to get that balance of price and what you get for your money just spot on. So for us this time the Ubud Sari resort hit the mark pretty well. Less then fifty NZD per night to stay in a nice room with balcony in a large complex with lush grounds, pool and restaurant. Its actually a health resort so they don’t serve beer – I know that worried me initially too . . . But in Indonesia you are never far from a Warung that will sell you a cold Beer Bintang (the local brew) for about 2 dollars.

Our life here has been super chilled. Ubud is touted as the cultural centre of Bali. It really became hot property following the release of “Eat, Pray, Love” which I watched because of Julia Roberts. Anyway, in the movie, Julia Roberts plays this stressed corporate type who takes a year out on a quest for personal discovery – in Italy, India and Ubud, Bali.

As a result of the book and movie Ubud has become a haven for Lycra clad people – predominantly female. It’s changed the place, and some say not for the better. An article I read entitled “How Elizabeth Gilbert (Julia Robert’s character) Ruined Bali” suggests that the influx of 30 and 40 something women wearing caftans has ruined the area, “making the place they like to party into one big estrogen-fuelled, self actualising yoga retreat.” Well maybe – but there are plenty of different characters around and experiences that range from upmarket spas to back street healers. That’s the good thing about Bali – there is a place for anyone here.

I cant really talk about what we did because we actually have been doing precious little of anything. Pretty much watching the world go by, sitting, eating, talking, reading. We did intersperse this with bouts of yoga, meditation, massages and jalan jalan (walking) through the busy streets. Met an interesting girl called Ruth on one of our walks – got to chatting and Jolanda ended up attending a Thai massage class on the spur of the moment. We had her round for breakfast this morning and learned more about her life – from Spain and been living in Ubud for over a year. Project managing the construction of a major new resort near Ubud and teaching Spanish online. Such an interesting story and such a warm lovely person. We got heaps of tips about India. Hopefully we will bump into each other again . . .

Tomorrow its off to Canggu on Bali’s south coast for a week and a half.